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20 dog tricks — from foundation to advanced

Real skills, not just party tricks. Loose-leash walking, scent work, weave poles, muzzle conditioning, and more. Each trick has full step-by-step instructions, common mistakes to avoid, and a clear progression cue.

Pick the level that fits your dog — 3 foundation, 6 intermediate, 8 advanced.

Level 1

Foundation tricks

Start here regardless of your dog's age. These are the behaviors that make daily life with a dog actually pleasant — safe, calm, and cooperative.

Foundation #1

Loose-leash walking without pulling

Time: 10-15 min/day for 2-3 weeks

The single most useful behavior for daily life with a dog. A dog that walks at your side without choking themselves on the leash.

Equipment: 6-foot leash, flat collar or front-clip harness, high-value treats (cheese, hot dog, freeze-dried liver).

Step by step

  1. Stand still in your yard or a low-distraction area with the dog on leash at your left side. Hold treats in your right hand, close to your body.
  2. Wait for the dog to look at you or take a step away from you. The instant they move back toward you or check in, mark with "yes!" and feed.
  3. Take one step. Stop. Wait for them to orient to you. Mark and feed. Repeat.
  4. Build up: 5 steps between rewards, then 10, then 20. If the leash tightens at any point, stop moving like a tree until they look back.
  5. Once you can walk 30 feet without leash tension in the yard, move to the driveway. Then the sidewalk. Then past another dog at a distance.
Common mistakes
  • Letting them pull even one step to "get where we're going" — every pull rewarded with forward motion teaches pulling.
  • Using a retractable leash — the variable length actually trains pulling because the dog controls the distance.
  • Stopping every time they pull — they quickly learn pulling makes you stop (which they want). The fix: stop moving BEFORE the leash tightens, not after.
When to progress to the next step

You're ready to move to the next location (yard → driveway → sidewalk) when you can do three 5-minute sessions in a row with zero leash tension. You're ready to walk past other dogs at a distance when they can handle a person 30 feet away without pulling.

Foundation #2

Reliable "leave it" with food on the ground

Time: 5 min/day for 1-2 weeks

Critical safety behavior. Once solid, your dog will walk past dropped chicken bones, antifreeze puddles, and a stranger's mystery object without touching it.

Equipment: Two types of treats — low-value (kibble) and high-value (cheese, hot dog). A leash for the early stages.

Step by step

  1. Show a closed fist with a low-value treat inside. The dog will sniff, lick, paw at it. Wait silently.
  2. The instant they pull back, look away, or lose interest, mark "yes!" and feed from your OTHER hand (the high-value treat). They learn that backing off the fist produces better treats.
  3. Repeat until they're reliably backing off within 2-3 seconds. Open your fist slightly — treat visible but guarded by your fingers.
  4. Progress to treat on the floor with your hand covering it. Same rule: they back off, you mark and feed a different treat from your other hand.
  5. When solid with hand-covered, place a treat on the floor and step back. If they move toward it, cover it with your foot. The moment they look away, mark and reward.
  6. Final stage: treat on floor, you standing back, no hand or foot ready. They should look at it and look at you instead.
Common mistakes
  • Saying "leave it" while they're already grabbing the treat — the cue has to come BEFORE the action or after they've already shown they won't take it.
  • Punishing them for going toward the food — "leave it" is taught by rewarding the BACKING OFF, not punishing the approach.
  • Testing with chocolate or toxic food in early training. Practice with kibble first. Real-world proofing comes later.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll walk past an open palm with food in it without taking it 9 times out of 10, you can start proofing with higher-value items (real chicken, cheese) and then real-world scenarios (food dropped during a walk).

Foundation #3

Settle on a mat

Time: 10 min/day for 2 weeks

A dog that has a "place" to relax when guests arrive, when you eat dinner, when you work from home. Foundation for calm in any distracting environment.

Equipment: A bath mat, towel, or dog bed designated as the "place." Treats.

Step by step

  1. Put the mat on the floor. Stand near it. When the dog investigates, mark "yes!" and toss a treat ON the mat.
  2. Add the cue word "place" the moment all four paws are on the mat. Mark and treat.
  3. Take one step back. Return. Mark and treat (on the mat).
  4. Build distance and duration together: 2 steps for 5 seconds, then 2 steps for 10 seconds, then 4 steps for 10 seconds.
  5. Add mild distractions: sit on the couch while they're on the mat. Then have a family member walk past. Then ring the doorbell (without opening).
Common mistakes
  • Letting them up when they get restless — that rewards the restlessness. Wait for 3 seconds of calm before releasing them.
  • Using the mat for punishment ("go to your place") — it should always be a positive space. Use a different cue if you need to send them away.
  • Progressing too fast — if they break at step 4, drop back to step 3 for two more days.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll stay on the mat for 30 seconds with you 10 feet away and a family member walking around, you can introduce doorbell-ringing as a mild distraction, then visitors.

Level 2

Intermediate tricks

For dogs with a solid foundation. These behaviors take more setup, more time, and more proofing — but they're the ones that genuinely expand what you can do with your dog.

Intermediate #1

Place cue + distance + duration

Time: 15 min/day for 2-3 weeks

Sends your dog to a specific location (their bed, a mat, a platform) and holds them there while you walk away, open the door, or answer the door.

Equipment: A raised platform (a piece of plywood on cinderblocks works), treats, a helper.

Step by step

  1. Lure the dog onto the platform with a treat. The instant all four paws touch, mark "yes!" and feed on the platform.
  2. Add the cue word "place" as they're jumping up. Mark and treat.
  3. Add the release word ("free" or "okay") — say it, take one step back, call them to you for a jackpot of treats.
  4. Build distance: 3 feet, then 10 feet, then across the room, then out of sight for 2 seconds.
  5. Add a helper. They walk past at 20 feet. Then 10 feet. Then close. The dog stays on the platform.
Common mistakes
  • Calling them off the platform too early — "place" should mean "stay there until I release you," not "jump on and stay for 2 seconds."
  • Using the cue in frustrating contexts too soon — if "place" means they're about to be left alone or a guest is about to come in and they're going to be isolated, they'll start avoiding the platform.
  • Skipping the release cue — without a clear release, the dog has to guess when they're done, which creates anxiety.
When to progress to the next step

They're reliable when you can leave the room for 30 seconds with the door open and the dog stays put. You can move to proofing (doorbell, visitors, real-world distractions) after that.

Intermediate #2

Scent discrimination (find the right scent)

Time: 15-20 min/day for 3-4 weeks

Teach your dog to identify and retrieve a specific scented object from a group. Foundation for search-and-rescue, nose work classes, or just an incredible mental workout.

Equipment: 5-10 identical boxes or tins, a piece of cotton ball, a target scent (birch, anise, or clove — sold as "nose work kits"), high-value treats.

Step by step

  1. Put the target scent on a cotton ball in one box. Leave all other boxes empty. Let the dog sniff each box freely. When they investigate the scented one, mark "yes!" and jackpot treat.
  2. Repeat until they're going to the scented box reliably on the first try (5-7 sessions).
  3. Move the scented box randomly between sessions. The dog learns to follow their nose to the source, not just remember a location.
  4. Add a second box with a different (non-target) scent. Reward only when they find the target. They learn to discriminate.
  5. Progress to 5 boxes, one scented, four with distractors. Eventually hide the target scent inside objects (a folded towel, a closed box).
Common mistakes
  • Showing them which box has the scent — you need to be neutral. No pointing, no looking.
  • Using your voice to encourage before they find it — let the dog work, then reward.
  • Progressing too fast — discrimination is hard. They need at least 10 successful runs at each level before adding complexity.
When to progress to the next step

When they can find a target scent in a line of 5 boxes with one or two distractors in under 30 seconds, you can enter a basic nose work class or start competing in NACSW (National Association of Canine Scent Work) trials.

Intermediate #3

Retrieve by name (specific toy)

Time: 10-15 min/day for 2-3 weeks

A dog that can fetch a specific named toy from a pile of others. Useful for "bring me the leash" games and impressive to show off.

Equipment: 3-5 distinctly different toys (different shapes, colors, textures — ball, rope, plush, rubber). High-value treats.

Step by step

  1. Pick one toy — start with the most distinctive. Play keep-away with just that toy. Throw it, mark when they pick it up, jackpot when they bring it back.
  2. Add the toy's name ("ball!") the moment they pick it up. Repeat: name → pickup → bring back → jackpot.
  3. Add a second toy to the mix. Put both on the floor. Ask for "ball" specifically. Reward heavily for picking the right one.
  4. If they pick the wrong toy, no reward — but no punishment. Just put both toys away and try again in 5 minutes.
  5. Build up to 5 toys on the floor. Add distance. Add distractions (another person walking through).
Common mistakes
  • Using toys that look similar — the dog needs a visual or scent difference to discriminate. Two stuffed animals in different colors is not enough.
  • Skipping the play phase — if they don't love the toy, they won't work to retrieve it. Build toy drive first.
  • Punishing wrong choices — they'll just stop trying. Take a break and reset.
When to progress to the next step

When they can pick the named toy from a pile of 5 in under 10 seconds 9 times out of 10, they're ready for the impressive demo: ask for any of the 5 by name in random order.

Intermediate #4

Target touch to hand at distance

Time: 10 min/day for 2 weeks

Your dog touches their nose to your outstretched palm on cue, from across the room. Foundation for recall, sending the dog to a location, and off-leash control.

Equipment: Treats. A flat palm.

Step by step

  1. Hold your palm 6 inches from the dog's nose. Most dogs investigate on their own. Mark "yes!" the instant their nose makes contact.
  2. Add the cue "touch!" right before they contact. Repeat: cue → touch → mark → reward.
  3. Slowly increase distance: 1 foot, 3 feet, 6 feet. The dog has to walk or run to touch.
  4. Add distractions: hold your palm while sitting on the couch, while at the front door, while another dog walks past.
  5. Use it as a recall cue — call their name + "touch!" + extend your palm. They come running because "touch" predicts a treat.
Common mistakes
  • Moving your hand toward the dog to "help" — they need to move to YOU, not the other way around.
  • Forgetting to fade the treat in your hand — eventually the cue should be just the open palm, no visible reward.
  • Using it inconsistently — the cue has to be paired with the same motion every time at first.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll touch your open palm from 10 feet away without you holding a treat, and you can use it as a recall cue reliably in low-distraction environments.

Intermediate #5

Crate training for calm independence

Time: 15 min/session, 2-3x/day for 2-3 weeks

A dog that's comfortable being crated for short periods — essential for travel, vet visits, emergencies, and preventing destructive behavior when you're away.

Equipment: Wire crate or kennel, treats, a stuffed Kong or long-lasting chew.

Step by step

  1. Toss treats near the open crate. Let the dog investigate. No pressure.
  2. When they're walking in and out voluntarily, toss treats inside the crate (back of it) so they step in to get them.
  3. Add the verbal cue "kennel" or "crate" as they walk in. Mark and treat.
  4. Close the door for 1 second while they're eating a high-value chew. Open it. Repeat, gradually extending the duration.
  5. Build up: 1 minute, 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 1 hour. You're out of sight for short periods, then back.
  6. Final stage: leave the house for 30 minutes with the dog crated and a frozen Kong. Return calmly — no fanfare.
Common mistakes
  • Using the crate as punishment — it should always be a safe, positive space.
  • Letting them out the moment they whine — that trains whining = crate opens. Wait for 5 seconds of quiet, then let them out.
  • Skipping the duration-building phase — going from 1 second to 8 hours on day one is a recipe for crate anxiety.
When to progress to the next step

They'll settle in the crate with the door closed for 1+ hour without complaint, and you can leave the house for short periods without distress.

Intermediate #6

Wait at the door (no bolting)

Time: 10 min/day for 1-2 weeks

A dog that waits at an open door until you release them. Critical safety behavior — no more dashing into traffic or escaping the yard.

Equipment: Treats, a leash, a closed door (start there), then a screen door, then an actual open door.

Step by step

  1. Stand by the closed door with the dog on leash. Reach for the doorknob. If the dog moves toward the door, stop. The moment they back off, mark and treat.
  2. Open the door an inch. Stop. Wait for the dog to look at you. Mark and treat.
  3. Open the door halfway. Wait for them to look at you. Mark and treat.
  4. Open the door fully. The dog must stay. Mark and treat for staying.
  5. Add the cue "wait" as you open the door. They learn "wait" means stay until released.
  6. Practice outside: the door is open, leash on, dog waits until you say "okay" before stepping out.
Common mistakes
  • Letting them out "just this once" because you're in a hurry — every bolting is rewarded with the outside, which is what they want.
  • Not adding a release cue — they need to know "okay" (or whatever you choose) means they can go. Otherwise they're guessing.
  • Practicing only with the closed door — proofing requires real-world distractions, including delivery drivers and other dogs walking by.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll wait at a fully open door for 30+ seconds without moving, and you can have a delivery person at the door without them trying to dart out.

Level 3

Advanced tricks

For committed owners and serious competitors. These take months of consistent work and produce real-world skills that go beyond "party trick."

Advanced #1

Ring toss (basketball-style)

Time: 15-20 min/day for 3-4 weeks

A basketball-style trick where your dog picks up a ring and drops it on a vertical post. Impressive demo skill and a great retrieve-builder.

Equipment: A ring toss stand (or DIY with PVC pipe and a base), several rings sized for the dog's mouth.

Step by step

  1. Start with the rings flat on the floor next to the post. Lure the dog to pick up a ring. Mark and treat.
  2. Move the ring closer to the post. They pick it up and put it down near the post. Mark heavily when it touches the post.
  3. Once they're reliably touching the ring to the post from a foot away, raise the post. The ring has to actually go OVER the post to count.
  4. Add the cue "shoot" as they pick up the ring. They learn "shoot" = pick up + deliver to post.
  5. Build distance: 3 feet, then 6 feet, then 10 feet.
Common mistakes
  • Skipping the "touch to post" stage — going straight to "over the post" before they understand the post is the target.
  • Using rings that are too small — they need to be easy to pick up and clearly different from the post.
  • Punishing missed throws — even pros miss 50% of the time. Reward effort, not accuracy.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll shoot from 6+ feet away on cue 7+ times out of 10. The trick is fully demo-ready when they can do 5 in a row successfully.

Advanced #2

Weave poles (12-pole)

Time: 15-20 min/day for 4-6 weeks

Dog agility classic. Dog weaves in and out of 12 vertical poles set 18-24 inches apart. Builds body awareness and is genuinely impressive to watch.

Equipment: 12 weave poles (set in a straight line, 24 inches apart). Treats. A helper to start.

Step by step

  1. Start with just 4-6 poles, spaced wider (36 inches). Lure the dog through with a treat held at chest height — they have to weave to follow it.
  2. The moment they take one pole correctly, mark and treat. Don't worry about getting through all of them.
  3. Add 2 more poles once they're fluid through 4-6. Gradually increase to 12.
  4. Tighten the spacing from 36" to 30" to 24" as they get more confident. 24" is the standard agility spacing.
  5. Add the cue "weave" as they enter the first pole. They learn the cue = start weaving.
  6. Move the start further away. Eventually the cue is enough — they run to the poles from across the yard.
Common mistakes
  • Spacing too tight too soon — they'll get frustrated and try to jump over.
  • Skipping the helper stage — having someone hold the dog at the start so you can lure them through helps.
  • Letting them skip a pole — reset and try again from 2 poles back. Don't reward incomplete weaves.
When to progress to the next step

They can complete all 12 poles at 24" spacing on cue in under 10 seconds. At that point they're ready for an intro agility class.

Advanced #3

Speak / quiet on cue

Time: 10-15 min/day for 2-3 weeks

A dog that barks on cue AND stops barking on cue. Useful for alerting (someone at the door) and the more practical skill of being quiet when asked.

Equipment: Treats. Something that reliably triggers a bark (doorbell sound on your phone, a favorite squeaky toy).

Step by step

  1. Trigger the bark naturally (ring doorbell). The moment they bark, mark "yes!" and treat.
  2. Add the cue "speak" right before the trigger. They learn the cue → bark → treat.
  3. Once they're barking on cue reliably, you have the foundation for "quiet."
  4. Say "speak," they bark. Then say "quiet" — wait for the smallest pause (even 1 second). Mark and treat.
  5. Build duration of quiet: 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 30 seconds.
  6. Proof in real life: doorbell rings, they bark, you say "quiet" — they stop.
Common mistakes
  • Trying to teach "quiet" first without "speak" — you can't ask a dog to stop doing something on cue that they don't know how to do on cue.
  • Rewarding silence with frustration — the dog will start offering behaviors to get the treat. Keep sessions short.
  • Using "quiet" in real life before they've generalized the cue — proof in different environments takes time.
When to progress to the next step

They'll bark on cue and stop on cue within 3 seconds, in any environment. Particularly useful for dogs who bark at the door, at the dinner table, or at visitors.

Advanced #4

Find it on cue — scent discrimination in a field

Time: 20-30 min/day for 4-8 weeks

Take scent work outdoors. Your dog searches a larger area for a target scent. Builds on the foundation "scent discrimination" trick.

Equipment: Target scent (birch/anise/clove), a long line (20-30 ft), high-value treats, an outdoor search area.

Step by step

  1. In your yard, hide the target scent in a small container under a piece of cardboard or a leaf. Let the dog search.
  2. When they find it, mark "yes!" and jackpot with multiple treats. Bring them back to start, hide again.
  3. Progress: bigger search area, longer line, more distractors (similar smells — other plants, food wrappers).
  4. Add a verbal alert — when they find it, they should sit, paw, or bark at the source. Pick one and reward only that.
  5. Build up to searching 50+ feet away with the long line trailing.
Common mistakes
  • Hiding the scent somewhere they can't physically reach — under concrete, in a storm drain. They need to be able to indicate the source.
  • Rewarding any indication (sniffing, circling, pawing) without picking one cue — they'll just do everything at once. Pick a clear, consistent alert.
  • Skipping the long line — off-leash search is dangerous in unfenced areas. Always have a way to catch them.
When to progress to the next step

They'll search a 50-foot radius and reliably indicate (sit/paw/bark) the source of the target scent within 2 minutes. At this level you can enter a NW1 (Nose Work 1) trial.

Advanced #5

Place cue with handler out of sight

Time: 15-20 min/day for 3-4 weeks

The pinnacle of the "place" cue — your dog stays on a platform while you leave the room, close a door, even leave the house briefly. Builds deep duration + distance + distraction.

Equipment: A platform, treats, a helper, eventually a way to leave the house.

Step by step

  1. Start with the "place" foundation trick fully solid. The dog should hold place for 30 seconds with you 10 feet away.
  2. Add: you step behind a wall for 5 seconds, return. Mark and treat on the platform.
  3. Build up: out of sight for 30 seconds, then 1 minute, then 5 minutes.
  4. Add a helper: you leave the room, helper walks past the platform. Dog holds.
  5. Final: you leave the house, dog holds for 10 minutes. Helper is nearby but not interacting.
Common mistakes
  • Skipping intermediate steps — going from "in the room" to "out of sight" too fast creates panic.
  • Returning while they're breaking — that's actually a jackpot for breaking because you came back. Always return before they break.
  • No helper present when you leave — if they've been trained with you as the only person around, leaving without you is genuinely novel.
When to progress to the next step

When they'll hold place for 15 minutes with you out of the house and a helper nearby. The dog is now truly independent in a stressful context.

Advanced #6

Heel position with automatic sit

Time: 15-20 min/day for 4-6 weeks

Formal heeling — your dog walks in precise position at your left side, looks up at you, and automatically sits when you stop. The gold standard for ring sport, obedience, and impressive daily walks.

Equipment: Leash, flat collar, treats, eventually a heel-stick (a target stick for precision).

Step by step

  1. Start with the dog on your left side. Mark and treat for being in the correct position (head at your thigh, shoulder at your knee).
  2. Take one step. Stop. Dog should automatically sit (you'll build this in next). For now, just reward for being in position.
  3. Build up: 5 steps, then 20, then 50. Reward frequently at first, then randomly.
  4. Add the automatic sit: take a step, stop, lure into sit with a treat at their nose. Mark and treat.
  5. Add turns: left, right, about-face. Reward for keeping position through the turn.
  6. Add speed changes: slow pace, fast pace, normal. The dog matches your speed and stays in position.
  7. Add distractions: another dog across the street, a person approaching, a squirrel.
Common mistakes
  • Holding the leash tight to "guide" them — they should be in position voluntarily. Loose leash only.
  • Skipping the duration-building phase — going from 5 steps to 50 too fast.
  • Practicing only on the left side — eventually teach both sides. (Competition heeling is on the left.)
When to progress to the next step

They can heel 50 paces in a straight line with you, then turn left, turn right, about-face, and automatically sit at every stop, with distractions present. They're ready for a basic obedience class or rally ring work.

Advanced #7

Settle under distractions (cafe / public transport)

Time: 20-30 min/session for 4-8 weeks

Take the "settle on mat" trick into the real world. Your dog can hang out calmly at a cafe table, on a park bench, or under your seat on a train. Endgame for city living with a dog.

Equipment: A portable mat (small blanket or dog-specific travel mat), high-value chews, treats. A helper.

Step by step

  1. Solid "settle on mat" in low-distraction environments (home, yard). They hold for 5 minutes.
  2. Move the mat to the front porch or driveway. Same drill: mat = settle = treat for calm.
  3. Move to a quiet park bench at off-hours. Sit on the bench, dog on the mat. Treat for calm.
  4. Bring a helper who walks past the dog at increasing distances. Dog stays on the mat.
  5. Move to a cafe patio during off-peak hours. Sit at a table. Dog on the mat underneath. Treat for calm.
  6. Practice at the vet's waiting room, at a friend's house, on a train platform.
Common mistakes
  • Progressing too fast — going from your yard to a busy Saturday brunch is a recipe for failure.
  • Not bringing chews — the mat has to be the BEST place to be. A stuffed Kong or bully stick makes the difference between tolerance and enjoyment.
  • Skipping the helper stage — real life has people walking by. They need to learn that "people walking past" doesn't mean "say hi."
When to progress to the next step

They'll settle calmly on their mat at a cafe, on a train, in a friend's living room — for 30+ minutes with mild distractions around them. Endgame skill for urban dog ownership.

Advanced #8

Muzzle conditioning (positive)

Time: 5-10 min/day for 2-4 weeks

Every dog should be comfortable wearing a basket muzzle — it's the single most important safety behavior for any dog. Required for travel, vet procedures, emergency situations, and reactive dogs.

Equipment: A basket muzzle sized for your dog's snout (Baskerville Ultra is a common choice). High-value treats (peanut butter, cream cheese, wet dog food).

Step by step

  1. Let the dog investigate the muzzle on the floor. Treat them for any calm investigation. Pick it up, treat. Touch it to their nose, treat.
  2. Hold a treat inside the muzzle (so their nose goes in to get it). Repeat 10 times.
  3. Hold the muzzle against their nose for 1 second while they eat a treat from inside. Repeat 10 times.
  4. Build up: 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds. Mark and treat each time they hold their nose inside.
  5. Fasten the straps behind their head for 1 second. Treat heavily. Remove. Repeat.
  6. Build duration: 30 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes, 30 minutes.
Common mistakes
  • Skipping the duration-building phase — muzzle training is one of the behaviors you absolutely cannot skip steps on. A dog that panics in a muzzle is a liability.
  • Using a fabric sleeve muzzle — these prevent biting but not panting or vomiting. Basket muzzles only for any training purpose.
  • Punishing them for pawing at the muzzle — that's a stress signal. Slow down, drop back a step.
When to progress to the next step

They willingly put their nose into the muzzle on cue and will wear it for 30+ minutes without pawing at it or showing stress signals. Every dog should reach this level, even non-reactive ones — it's the safety equivalent of a seatbelt.

Principles

Six rules that make training stick

1

Short sessions beat long ones

Three 5-minute sessions spread across a day produce more learning than one 30-minute marathon. Dogs learn in short bursts and need rest between.

2

Timing matters more than treats

Reward within 1-2 seconds of the correct behavior. A late reward teaches the dog you're rewarding whatever they're doing right now, not what they did a moment ago.

3

Set the dog up to succeed

Start in a low-distraction environment. Use high-value treats for new behaviors. Build difficulty gradually. The fastest trainers aren't pushing the dog — they're setting up scenarios where the right answer is obvious.

4

End every session on a win

Always finish with something the dog knows well. They walk away happy, you feel successful, and tomorrow's session starts with confidence.

5

Skip a day if you're frustrated

Dogs pick up on your mood. If you're tired or frustrated, give them a treat walk or play session instead. Come back to training tomorrow.

6

Read the stress signals

Lip licking, yawning, whale eye (showing whites of eyes), turning away, panting when it's not hot. These all mean "I'm not comfortable." Take a break or drop back a step in the training.

Trained dog, clean yard

Once your dog is comfortable with "leave it" and "wait at the door," cleanup visits become easier — the gate stays secure and your dog learns to wait while the technician works. Browse local providers below.

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